So if I had done this properly the first time, Layla’s dresser probably wouldn’t look like this now. But it does (in fact, it looks worse because I’ve taken off some of the paper for this project!) and so I did it properly this time. Well, I think I did… Instead of redoing her dresser, I thought I’d patchwork wallpaper something else, so decided the keyboard tray of my old desk was (previous post) was the way to go. So if you like the “patchwork” look of decoupage, here is how to get it on your desk, drawer front – wherever (I’m going to say ‘tabletop’ for this tutorial)!

Your toolkit:
1. Wallpaper scraps/samples. The moth paper was from the real living offices when I worked there but the others are from a UK site called Fabrics & Papers. They have free generous-sized samples, you just need to pay for shipping. I originally bought my samples because I planned to wallpaper my bedroom but that didn’t turn out so I used them on furniture/frames instead. You could also use gift wrap. Unless you like the look of wild colour and pattern, I’d go with a subtle palette of papers in similar tones; I went with greys with a hint of blue and green. A range of pattern is good in these colourways too – some large patterns, some smaller work well rather than all the same style. A lot of white as a base always helps too – especially if the rest of the piece is white. It just tones it all done a notch. A bonus using samples is that it will save you splurging on a whole roll of paper which is what you’d likely have to do should you paper the entire front of drawers or tabletop.

2. Decoupage glue. Mine is Martha Stewart’s from Spotlight (I honestly can’t remember the price – maybe $12?) but according to a few sites I’ve read, Modge Podge is better. I have nothing to compare it to, so this worked fine for me. Maybe the brush is on the little side for large projects, but that could be easy fixed with a bigger one and pouring the glue into a dish.

3. Cutting mat. You’ll need one with the lines/ruler on it

4. Ruler – metal is best for the most perfect cut

5. Scalpel – scary little buggers these things are, but you need one

Step 1 Work out the patchwork by lying the pieces on the floor in the pattern you wish to re-create on the furniture. Start with one corner – I started with my fave piece because I wanted to use the maximum amount of it – and cut a perfectly straight line on the side which will line up with the edge of the tabletop. Now line the straight edge up to the edge of the tabletop and mark on the other edge where the paper overhangs the tabletop edge. Cut off the excess so you have a straight right angle. Place the right angle in the corner, lining up the two straight edges with the mat’s lines and use the lines as your guide to trim the other sides so you have an evenly cut piece.

Step 2 Get glueing. To be perfectly honest, I’m not sure if you’re meant to paste the back of the paper or the tabletop, but I did the tabletop because it seemed to make more sense to me. Only glue the area you’re immediately working. Line up the straight edge (or edges if it’s in the corner) and smooth into place with your hand. Have a tissue on hand to wipe away the excess glue that might squeeze out.

Step 3 Use a credit card (or Dymocks booklovers card you didn’t realise you had!) to smooth out any creases and bumps. Again, use a tissue to clear away excess glue.

Step 4 From here it gets easier. Cut the next piece on the edge you’re going to line up to the paper you’ve already glued. Press it up flush against the paper and mark on the paper (or make a tiny cut with your scalpel) where the excess overhangs. Cut this line next, then finish cutting the other two sides as before. I recommend you do it this way rather than cutting it all perfectly square the first time because some furniture can be warped and not perfectly straight, therefore your paper could be out by a millimetre or two. Remember to find the best part of the pattern or the piece you love the most to feature and cut around that.

Step 5 If you have lots of small pieces, try to balance it out with one bigger piece. I think different sizes work best. It should look something like this! Smooth out any more bumps one more time and it should be ready to seal. I waited about an hour until it felt dry before doing so.

Step 6 Now you need to seal it with the decoupage glue. So paste it all over the whole piece working with smooth-as-possible strokes. I only did one coat because I felt it was enough and I didn’t want it to look too plasticy. Leave to dry and you’re done!

I hope this makes sense. Let me know if you’re totally confused or need more info. I’m very much sleep deprived so it’s entirely possible it resembles another language in parts!! x

This entry was posted on Wednesday, October 21st, 2009 at 1:44 am and is filed under craft, decorating, house, project. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.